October 31, 2003

More about Churchill

So we were out on the edge of town enjoying the aurora borealis when I became highly aware that it would be impossible to see polar bears approaching until they were within 50 feet of us. So I persuaded Peter that it was a good idea to return to the lights of town and the relative safety they offer. He set up his camera on a tripod between two buildings. I look forward to seeing the photos. A group of us sat up quite late (11:00) to kill off a couple of bottles of wine that I had bought in Churchill and did not want to carry back. It was a fun social activity.

The next and last day in Churchill started with a group breakfast at Gypsy's down the road from the hotel. They have great food reasonably priced. We walked back to the hotel to meet our bus which took us out to the Dog Sledding place. We were given a talk and saw a slide show on dog sledding. The owner, John Stetson, did the International Trans Antarctic trip with his dog team. It was a great morning. I managed to get onto a sled for each of 4 change-ups. It was another dream come true. Unfortunately there was not enough snow yet so we were on wheeled sleds instead of runners. The dogs are so beautiful and social. They loved all the attention from we tourists.

We were then bussed directly to the Churchill Airport where we got onto the plane and left nearly 1/2 an hour early. The flight was non-eventful... a very good thing in an old Dash-8. We arrived in Winnipeg at 2:30, were bussed over to the main airport and the Four Points Sheraton there. I checked on my flight reservation and hopped a city bus to the corner of Portage and Fort (one block before the infamous Portage & Main) and walked to my hotel about 3 blocks away.

I went to The Toad on Main Pub for supper and a beer then at 9:30 returned to my room where I collapsed. I was exhausted. Slept until 8:30. Had a latish breakfast, did a blog update, checked out and cabbed to the airport. Air Canada did, of course, have a slight schedule change on my flight which left 45 minutes later than it should have. This time the excuse (which I heard was legitimate... for a change) was severe weather in Calgary. I arrived in Ottawa's new International Airport at about 5:00.

Now I will be staying at my friend Wendy's house until Wednesday morning. My plans for the winter of Bahamian sailing have been cancelled so I must find an alternative. May stay in Ottawa until mid January. This means getting a job and a place to live. Darn!

Must go now.

Posted by gailene at 09:48 PM

October 29, 2003

Churchill Polar Bears

Just in Winnipeg now on the way home from Churchill, Manitoba in northern Canada. What a special trip. There are not the words to describe how I feel.

Took the train to Toronto on Monday October 20, stayed overnight in the Fairmont Royal York just across the street from the train station and got on the train for Winnipeg in the morning. Stayed overnight in Winnipeg on the 22nd at the Hampton Inn just across from the train station.

aw a good production of "Cookin' At The Cookery - the life and times of Alberta Hunter" at the Manitoba Theatre Centre that evening. Got on the train for Churchill on the 23rd and arrived in Churchill over 2 hours late at 11:30 on the 25th. We toured the town of Churchill and the area, visiting the gunnery overlooking Fort Prince of Wales. During the tour we saw an Arctic Hare, 3 Cross Foxes and an Arctic Fox stalking and catching a lemming. Our guide Paul said we had been very lucky because most people never see a hare. They are all white with just tips of black on the ears. Had a late lunch, visited the Parks Canada Museum where we had a talk and saw films about the polar bears. Had supper at the Lazy Bear Lodge and got bussed to the Town Centre where we saw a slide show by a naturalist photographer mostly polar bears and tundra. Three of us walked back to the hotel and after returning from a walk to the edge of town looking for northern lights sat up with other travellers chatting. We were all wiped by 9:00/10:00.

Day 2 was spent in a Tundra Buggie with our tour leader Walter Berry and the buggie driver/guide Martin Flanagan. We spotted bears immediately. When a pair of young females began fighting right in front of us beside the observation deck of our buggie it was fabulous. They were only play fighting but it went on for at least half an hour with them wrestling, flopping about, boxing and rolling in the snow. A polar bear watcher's dream. They were so close to us. Even Walter and Martin jumped up, got their cameras and started snapping photos like tourists. That is what made us eralize how lucky we were. Martin said it was a rare thing to witness and that we were very lucky.

It was hard to top that but as the day went on we saw 19 more bears bringing our day total to 23. Not just sleeping bears either. We had several bears approach our buggy and do close inspection. We saw dramas unfold as a big male approached a sleeping mother and cub from across a lake. Mother decided to move her cub away, quickly. The male followed but she was not taking any chances. He eventually left them alone and everyone settled down to rest. We saw one 3 year old male several times as he wandered about the area. There were lots of bears hanging out at the Tundra Buggy Lodge where we stopped for lunch. As we passed a bit of willow scrub we discovered a snoozing bear on the other side but he hardly even lifted his head as we stopped to look him over. Amazing.

We were bussed back to our hotel, did a bit of souvenir hunting at the shop and went down the road for supper. The bus picked us up at the restaurant and we headed out of town to look for northern lights (aurora borealis). They were there but very pale. Afterwards Peter (a fellow tourist) and I went souvenir shopping and then to a local watering hole where there was to be an open jam session (a regular Sunday night event) and had a couple or 3 beers. Most of the guides were there including Walter, our fearless leader. It was lots of fun and the music was good too.

Day 3 was spent on the Tundra Buggy again but with an addition. Peter, Diana, her 10 yr. old son Dawson, another woman and I booked a helicopter tour. The weather was bright, sunny and warm (by Churchill standards) so it was a fab tour of 45 minutes. We asw about 30 (lost count) bears from the air, saw 8 or 9 moose in a patch of wooded area. Flew east towards Cape Churchill and out over Fox Islands on the way back. We were picked up at the buggy and dropped back at a different meeting point on Gordon Point. I got lots of photos and movies of the trip which was a first for me. The best was that I got to be in the co-pilot seat. What a thrill, unbelievably great. After a stop for lunch, more bears spotting (23-28 on the buggy) and an Arctic Fox hunting all over the Tundra Buggy Lodge area, ignoring the bears who ignored him.

Back to the hotel to freshen up before supper but first a bit of souvenir shopping. Then off to the Northern Nights Restaurant for supper. The bus came for us again and out we went looking for the aurora borealis which was still somewhat undramatic. But when we were getting off the bus at the hotel a stunning display of aurora borealis appeared overhead. It was stunning and we watched for almost an hour in the freezing cold night.

Gotta run now. More later...

Posted by gailene at 11:14 AM

Last about France

Spent my last 2 days in Montpellier. It is a wonderful city. Spent my time walking, exploring and, of course, shopping. Montpellier is a perfect blend of a metropolitan University town with great history and small town appeal. People there are friendly and helpful. They were all very patient with my bad french especially when I explained that I was learning french and preferred that they speak french and that I try to as well. Most actually helped me out with corrections to my grammar and additions to my vocabulary.

The flight home was mostly uneventful except for the flight from Montpellier to Paris. I was staring out the window admiring the magnificent sunrise over a flat bed of light cloud cover. In the distance was what appeared to be a bank of heavy dark thunderheads at the centre of the runrise. As we began to come due west of the dark mass it became obvious that what I was looking at was the peaks of the Alps coming up through the clouds. The effect was that of a huge island in the sea of clouds. My camera was in the overhead bin and there was an overlarge sleeping man between me and the bin door. I could have screamed. So I frantically took notes and sketched in my journal for later reference. This may become a painting.

I got back to Ottawa 2 hours late thanks to Air Canada's inability to stick to a schedule. Missed my family's Thanksgiving meal. Bart and Sam picked me up at the Airport. Thank you guys.

Was in Ottawa visiting with family and friends for about a week. Did some work on the photo gallery but did not have enough time to finish it and get it posted. I am trying a nwe gallery generator that Tom found and is using. It is nicer and easier than the previous one.

Posted by gailene at 11:01 AM

October 15, 2003

More about France

On Saturday September 27th Peter (house keeper Isabel's husband) drove Bart to Montpellier. I went along for the drive and to make sure he got himself settled in a decent hotel. For the drive back Peter took a slightly different route tin order to go through a few scenic towns and villages and to show me some of the more popular sights of the area. It is a gorgeous area. The scenery is often breath taking. This landscape is truly unique and quite special.

After Bart left St-Laurent-le-Minier I was a little sad but snapped out of it quickly. My first thing was to get started on painting. During the remainder of my stay in the village I completed 2 small pictures and started another larger one which is about half completed.

Our visit to Cirque de la Navacelle has left a permanent impression on my mind. The sheer magnitude and marvellous magnificence of the whole area is astounding. The canyon or ancient river gorge was a total surprise but what treat! We approached it...

... along a narrow, treacherous road that twists and turns up into the mountains to a high plateau. The views from lookouts along the way (at small pull-overs) were a clue. We had hitch-hiked and were very lucky to get one ride in a small truck/van to the top of the plateau. There we turned down a road that wove its way across the plateau to the lookout on the far side.

Posted by gailene at 11:16 PM

October 03, 2003

Last week in France

Hello everyone

Well I am entering my last week in France. I have really loved it. Have completed one and started 2 other paintings that I hope to complete this weekend.

Next week, probably Wednesday, maybe Tuesday, I go to Montpellier for a couple of days before leaving on the 11th. When I get home I'll post photos of the area. This was a great idea. Highly recommended as a great way to chill out for awhile.

Must run to catch the bus.

Posted by gailene at 04:48 PM